The Garden in Autumn

The crisp blue autumn sky makes a perfect backdrop for the flaming orange hues of Sugar and Japanese maples. In the sunny clearing below, bright purple, blue and magenta asters burst with color next to the deep red of Autumn Joy Sedum. Overhead, the backdrop of Red Tipped Photina sways in green and red. Crickets chirp loudly among the garden mums nestled close to the earth in their blankets of red, yellow, white and maroon. The pansies frolic in the breeze at their feet, soft velvet faces in a rainbow of colors turned up toward the last warmth of the sun. The burning bush glows red in the corner by the fence. The wind whispers of the coming cold through the plumes of Silver and Maiden Grass. Birds chirp fitfully around the Pyracantha whose branches are drooping from the weight of its clusters of bright orange berries. The dogwood offers them its bright red fruit as well amidst its blazing red leaves. Azaleas, covered now again in flowers, glow a bright magenta next to the house. A hydrangea rustles, its once blue blooms now faded to a bronzy pink. The Nandina glows in the shade of a nearby pine. Clematis 'Nelly Moser' enjoys its last show of blooms for the season as it twines up the mailbox post.

You can create your own fall palette of color in the garden. Choose plants whose leaves turn bright orange or red, foliage plants with interesting textures and perennials that bloom very late in the season. Spice it up with autumn annuals and biennials like garden mums and pansies. Don't overlook the interest created by seed pods, dried flower heads and motion created by the breeze in ornamental grasses.

Fall Lawn Maintenance

September is the month for most climates to begin preparing your lawn for fall and winter weather.

Overseeding with a cool-season turfgrass variety will enable you to enjoy an attractive lawn well into the fall and early winter months.

Start two to three weeks before overseeding by closely inspecting your lawn. If you have a lot of weeds, spray them with a herbicide to eliminate weed competition. After waiting for the herbicide to work on an established lawn, cut the grass as low as possible and aerate or de-thatch the lawn before overseeding.

Fall is also an ideal time if you're establishing a new lawn.

Once the seed is planted and October has arrived, put down an Agway Branded fertilizer. The fertilizer promotes early spring green-up and is formulated to improve winter hardiness, without the excessive leaf growth in the fall.

Of course, no general blanket seed or fertility recommendation best suits every lawn. That's why, unlike products available from the big box retailers, each lawn care product from Agway comes with advice from experts at your local Agway retailer.

It’s not unusual to fertilize your lawn in the spring, but don’t let the cooler temperatures of autumn fool you. Fall actually is the best time to fertilize the grass, even better than springtime. After the summer’s heat and humidity, grass regains its strength before winter with a good fall fertilizing. Fertilizing now also helps grass develop a thick and deep root system, so it can better survive next summer’s heat.

Taking stock -A soil test is the best way to determine what nutrients are lacking in your lawn. Test for nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, as well as the soil’s pH level.

Assess if your yard is planted with cool season or warm season grasses. It’s the cool season grasses - bent grass, Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass varieties – that benefit from fall fertilizing. Cool season grasses are generally planted in locations with cold winters and warm to hot summers.

Choosing a fertilizer - Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are the three primary components in lawn fertilizer. The shorthand is N-P-K.

Nitrogen builds strong grass and roots. It keeps grass green and protects it from diseases.

Fall fertilizers include phosphorus for stronger roots. A lawn with adequate phosphorus can better fight diseases and is more tolerant to heat, cold and drought.

Potassium helps to protect the grass and roots from winter’s extremely cold temperatures.

Gypsum also could be present in the fertilizer. It loosens heavy clay soils and improves absorption of nutrients. Loose soil makes it easier for new spring grass to break through.

Your soil’s pH level will indicate its chemistry. If the pH level shows a need to reduce acidity, apply lime. If alkalinity needs to be reduced, apply sulfur.

The bag’s label shows the N-P-K concentration by weight using a series of three numbers. For example, a 50-pound bag of fertilizer that’s labeled 5-10-5 is comprised of 2.5 pounds (five percent) nitrogen, five pounds (10 percent) phosphorus and 2.5 pounds (five percent) potassium.

Larger numbers indicate greater concentration of the nutrients. The concentration determines the lawn area that a bag of fertilizer will cover, so follow the manufacturer’s application directions.

Some fertilizers release their nutrients quickly, while others release it slowly. Determine which is best for your fall application given your grass and climate. Slow-release fertilizers result in longer, more even feeding, while fast-release products deliver nutrients to the grass quickly in advance of cooling soil and air temperatures.

If your lawn has a lot of shade, it may not require as much fertilizer. Shady lawns generally grow more slowly than sunny lawns. Check the label for any special directions for shady conditions.

While the top growth of your grass slows or stops altogether in cooler autumn temperatures, the roots continue to grow.

Two fall fertilizer applications properly prepare your yard for winter. Apply the initial treatment late in August or early September. Apply the second feeding in late October to mid-November. The N-P-K nutrients feed the roots to keep the grass strong during the winter. They also provide reserves for a green and quick growth spurt in the spring.

Fertilizer dissolves more easily and quickly into soil that’s somewhat moist. If your yard is very dry, give it a good watering and then wait a day to fertilize. Otherwise the fertilizer’s ingredients won’t be as effective.

Bulb Planting Guide

Timing - All spring flowering bulbs can be planted from September - December. In all cases, bulbs should be in the ground before the first frost.

Soil preparation - The soil should allow for good drainage - loosen and add if necessary peat moss, to achieve this. Dig either a trench for a bed planting or individual holes for individual bulbs or small clusters. Use the package label for guidance on the spacing requirements - the general rule is the large the bulbs, the more space they need between them.

Planting - Plant the bulbs by placing, not pushing them into position. The correct position is determined by the variety you're planting. Check the package label for the angle - the better the bulb is set, the straighter the flower will grow. Bulbs should generally be planted twice as deep as they are high. Cover the bulbs with soil and water. Keep the planting moist to allow the roots to form more quickly. Bulbs will now get accustomed to their new environment and you can look forward to a colorful spring!

Maintenance - While it is true that bulbs will re-bloom year after year, this can be further encouraged by fertilizing your planting in the spring. Observe other gardens and experiment! You'll be amazed with your success!

How deep should I plant my fall bulbs?

The basic rule of thumb is that the hole should be at least three times as deep as the height of the bulb. Use the chart below for the required planting depth of your bulbs.  Don't worry about your bulbs being planted an inch or two deeper than recommended; in most cases this provides the bulb with a little extra protection.  Our packaging provides you with a variety of specific guidelines and planting tips.

Summer bulbs have varied planting requirements so make sure to consult the information we provide on our packaging for best results. Article courtsey of Netherland Bulbs

Printable version here

Planting Drifts In Color

If you've ever dreamed of a large garden planted with drifts of blazing color, you've come to the right place. There are many perennial plants that will meet your needs. They require very little maintenance and will come back year after year. You can increase the size of the drift by planting 2 or 3 of the same plant together.

In the chart below you'll find plants we recommend for the Mid Atlantic States - generally Zones 4-10. We've listed the common and Latin names, height and spread, bloom time and color, and light requirements.

House Plants

Caring for house plants varies considerably depending on the plant, but in general, important factors to consider include moisture levels, light sources, planting soil, room temperature, humidity levels and the pot itself.

Moisture - If you have any experience with house plants, you will probably be aware that over-watering can be just as damaging as under-watering. Always go by direct observation—never by scheduled watering dates. Check the soil with your finger to decide if it needs water. Most plants benefit from a watering cycle that allows the soil to become fairly dry between waterings. Depending on your plant, you may want to water by pouring directly on the soil and letting it drain from the bottom; by misting the leaves; or by setting the plant in a bath of cool water and allowing moisture to absorb upwards. Always allow plants to drain before placing them back in a non-draining pot.

Lighting and Temperature - House plants have different light requirements. In general, direct or semi-direct lighting from a window or skylight is optimal. Plants do best when they are exposed to light for at least 8 hours per day. If natural lighting is limited, consider the option of an electric spotlight (grow-light) directed at the plant. In this case, remember that fluorescent tubes are much better than incandescent. For green plants, choose bulbs with a blue cast; for flowering plants, try bulbs with a reddish cast.Because house plants must survive inside homes that typically are fairly warm year-round, most common varieties are actually tropical species. If you are having problems raising a particular type of house plant, make sure that it is suited to your indoor temperature.

Potting Soil - A potting mix is key to nurturing house plants—which generally do not grow well in outdoor soils.

Indoor Humidity - Most house plants are adaptable to a range of humidity levels, but homes that are typically kept at a very low humidity may be too dry for indoor plants. If your home is very dry, it may help to arrange house plants close together, where they can provide humidity for each other and to avoid areas with drafts.

Fertilizers - While it is never a good idea to over-fertilize house plants, nutrient replacement is important at intervals. If you have a plant that is thriving but has been in the same pot for a year or more, it may be time to fertilize. Err on the side of caution: a good rule of thumb is to apply a dilution that is half the strength of the recommended mix.

Pots - A house plant’s pot is its home. Choose a pot that is the right size right now. An oversized pot will hold too much moisture for a small root ball, while a pot that is too small will crowd growing roots. A rule of thumb is that a pot will last for about two years before the plant outgrows it. There are porous (usually clay) and non-porous pots (glazed pottery, plastic, metal, etc.). Porous pots are a better choice because they allow airflow and moisture control. It is essential to look for pots with drainage holes at the bottom. If you want to display a house plant in a pot that is solid on the bottom, put the plant in a pot with drainage holes and then set it into the larger, solid pot.

Article courtesy of GRO-WELL Brands CP, Inc.

Mulch Chart for AGWAY 3 cu ft bags

1. Measure area to be covered in square feet (length x width = square feet)
2. Refer to appropriate square footage in ‘Square Feet' column (far left)
3. Follow chart across to desired depth, in inches (across top of chart)

Example: Area to be covered is 10' wide x 60' long

1.) 10' x 60' = 600 sq ft
2.) Refer to "600" in the Square Foot column
3.) Follow chart along the 600 sq ft row to match the desired depth, in inches (across top of chart) to determine estimated number of bags of mulch needed to provided desired coverage.
4.) 600 SQ FT at 2" DEPTH = APPROX. 33.3 BAGS

QUICK CONVERSION: 9 x 3 cu ft bags = 1 cu ft yard

Number of 3 cuft bags needed for coverage (Thickness in Inches) -Click HERE for a printable version of the above chart.

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