Vegetables
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When to Harvest Vegetables Chart
Article provided by UGA Extension
If vegetables are not harvested at the proper stage of maturity, physiological processes occur that permanently change their taste, appearance and quality. The texture, fiber and consistency of all vegetables are greatly affected by the stage of maturity at harvest, by post-harvest handling and by the time interval between harvesting and serving.
| Vegetable |
Part Eaten |
Too Early |
Optimum Maturity |
Too Late |
| Artichoke, Globe |
Immature bloom |
Small flower buds |
When buds are 2" to 4" in diameter |
Large buds with loose scales or bracts |
| Asparagus |
Stem |
Insufficient length |
6" to 8" long; no fiber |
Excess woody fiber in the stem |
| Beans, Lima |
Seed |
Insufficient bean size |
Bright green puffy pod; large seed |
Yellow pods |
| Beans, Pole Green |
Pod and seed |
Insufficient size |
Bean cavity full; seed ¼ grown |
Large seed; fibrous pods |
| Beans, Snap Bush |
Pod and seed |
Insufficient size |
Turgid pods; seeds just visible |
Fibrous pods; large seed |
| Beets |
Root and leaves |
Insufficient size |
Roots 2" to 3" in diameter |
Pithy roots; strong taste |
| Broccoli |
Immature bloom |
Insufficient size |
Bright green color; |
Loose head; |
| bloom still tightly closed |
some blooms beginning to show |
| Brussels Sprouts |
Head |
Insufficient size; |
Bright green; tight head |
Loose head; |
| hard to harvest |
color changes to green-yellow |
| Cabbage |
Head |
Insufficient leaf cover |
Heads firm; leaf tight |
Loose leaf; heads cracked open |
| Cantaloupes |
Fruit |
Stem does not want to separate from fruit |
Stem breaks away easily |
Yellow background color; soft rind |
| and cleanly when pulled |
| Carrots |
Root |
Insufficient size |
½" to ¾" at shoulder |
Strong taste; oversweet |
| Cauliflower |
Immature bloom |
Head not developed |
Compact head; fairly smooth |
Curds open; separate |
| Celery |
Stems |
Stem too small |
Plant stands 12" to 15" tall; medium-thick stem |
Seed stalk formed; bitterness |
| Collards |
Leaf |
Insufficient leaf size |
Bright green color; small midrib |
Large midrib; fibrous |
| Corn, Sweet |
Grain |
Grain watery; small |
Grain plump; liquid in milk stage |
Grain starting to dent; |
| liquid in dough stage |
| Cucumber |
Fruit |
Insufficient size |
Dark green skin; soft seeds |
Skin beginning to yellow; hard seeds |
| Eggplant |
Fruit |
Insufficient size |
High glossy skin; |
Brown seeds; |
| side springs back when mashed |
side will not spring back when mashed |
| Lettuce, Head |
Leaves |
Head not fully formed |
Fairly firm; good size |
Heads very hard |
| Okra |
Pod |
Insufficient size |
2" to 3" long; still tender |
Fiber development; tough pods |
| Onions, Dry |
Bulb |
Tops all green |
Tops yellow; ¾ fallen over |
All tops down; bulb rot started |
| Peas, English |
Seed |
Peas immature and too small to shell |
Peas small to medium; |
Yellow pods; large peas |
| sweet bright green |
| Peas, Southern (green) |
Seed and pod |
Peas immature and too small to shell |
Seeds fully developed but still soft; |
Hard seeds; dry pods |
| soft pods |
| Pepper, Pimiento |
Pod |
Insufficient size |
Bright red and firm |
Shriveled pod |
| Pepper, Red Bell |
Pod |
Chocolate-colored pods |
Bright red and firm |
Shriveled pod |
| Potato, Irish |
Tuber |
Insufficient size |
When tops begin to die back |
Damaged by freezing weather |
| Potato, Sweet |
Root |
Small size; immature |
Most roots 2" to 3" in diameter |
Early plantings get too large and crack; damaged by soil temperature below 50°F |
| Rhubarb |
Stem |
Small size; immature |
Stem 8" to 15" long is best |
Fleshy stem becomes fibrous |
| Soybeans |
Seed |
Seeds not developed |
Thick pods; bright green |
Dry pods; seed shatters out |
| Squash, Summer |
Fruit |
Insufficient size |
Rind can be penetrated with thumbnail |
Penetrating with thumbnail is difficult; |
| large seed |
| Squash, Winter |
Fruit |
Soft rind |
Rind difficult to penetrate |
Damaged by frost |
| with thumbnail |
| Tomatoes |
Fruit |
May be harvested in three stages: |
| Mature green – tomato is firm and mature, color changes from green to light green, no pink color showing on blossom end. These tomatoes will store one to two weeks in the refrigerator. |
| Pink – pink color about the size of a dime on the blossom end. At room temperature, these tomatoes will ripen in about three days. |
| Ripe – tomato is full red but still firm. Should be used immediately. |
| Watermelon |
Fruit |
Green flesh; green stem is difficult to separate |
Melon surface next to the ground |
Top surface has a dull look |
| turns from a light straw color |
| to a richer yellow |
Vegetables
Vegetable gardens
A vegetable garden can be safely started in the spring when the last snow has melted and the soil has begun to dry out, and in the early fall as long as there is enough time to harvest before freezing temperatures hit.
There are three ways to start a vegetable garden: from seeds that you “start” or bring to seedling indoors; from seeds planted directly in the garden plot; or from seedlings purchased. For beginning gardeners, seedlings are an easier choice. If possible, position your vegetable garden within easy reach of the house so you can check frequently for pests, weeds and other needs as the plants mature.
Choosing vegetables to grow
Consult a local expert to find out which varieties grow in your area—and in which season (keep in mind that there are “winter” and “spring” vegetables types). Once you have the right seeds or seedlings in hand, everything is possible!
Soil preparation: composts and fertilizers
Break up the soil and turn carefully with a till or fork, then add several inches of rich organic compost. After the garden is prepared, mix an organic fertilizer into the soil as you set in the plants. Apply again when the plants are half-grown.
Water requirements
Vegetable seeds and seedlings need plenty of water while they’re developing and while the edible part of the plant is growing. Be sure the soil can drain or else the roots will begin to rot. Water in the morning or evening so the sun won’t dry up the moisture before it reaches plant roots.
Article Courtesy of GRO-WELL Brands CP, Inc.
Feeding tomatoes
It is necessary to fertilize the garden before planting tomatoes. Apply the fertilizer again when fruit first sets. From that point on, an additional fertilization (sidedress) every week to 10 days is recommended. Plants grown on sandy soils should be fertilized more frequently than those grown on heavy, clay soils. A general sidedress fertilizer recommendation is one to two tablespoons of a complete fertilizer scattered around the plant and worked into the soil. If using a fertilizer high in nitrogen such as ammonium nitrate or sulfate, reduce the rate to one tablespoon per plant.
Controlling Tomato Problems
Controlling Blossom-End Rot
This is a common problem, so we'll deal with it first. The first sign is a water-soaked spot near the blossom end of the fruit. This spot becomes brown or black and may enlarge until it covers a third to half of the fruit. As the spot grows, the tissues shrink and the surface becomes dark, leathery and often sunken.
Sometimes, blossom-end rot occurs when tomato plants have grown rapidly during the early part of the season and then are subjected to prolonged dry weather as the tomato fruits are developing. Other times, the damage occurs after long periods of extra rainfall. Research also indicates that extreme fluctuations in soil moisture and excessive applications of high nitrogen fertilizer aggravate this disorder.
The basic cause of blossom-end rot is a lack of calcium, so provide an ample supply. Test your garden's soil pH before planting. If it's less than 6.8, spread ground lime before setting out the tomato transplants. Some gardeners even mix a handful of lime in the hole at planting time.
Water regularly so tomato plants receive an uniform supply of moisture. Keep the soil evenly moist but not extremely wet. Spread a 2 inch blanket of mulch over the roots to conserve moisture. Use grass clippings, compost or weed-free straw, replenishing as needed.
If blossom-end rot is already occurring, mix one tablespoon of calcium chloride per gallon of water and spray the foliage two or three times a week as the tomatoes are developing. Do not spray for the entire season, as it may injure the foliage.
Other Common Tomato Problems
Cracking
Tomatoes often crack after rainy periods and high temperatures that favor rapid growth. They are most likely to crack when they have reached full size and are turning color. Cracks blemish the fruit and often create points of infection.
The best way to avoid cracking is to plant resistant varieties such as Early Girl, Jet Star, Roma, Pilgrim and Heinz 1370. Also water regularly to keep soil moisture uniform throughout the growing season.
Blossom Drop
Tomato plants often develop beautiful blossoms that mysteriously fall off. This problem is often temperature-related. Some varieties may drop their blossoms when night temperatures fall below 55° while high day temperatures above 90° and night temperatures above 75° may also cause blossom drop. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties, keep the soil evenly moist and avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers during the early stages of plant growth. Also watch for signs of early blight or bacterial spot that may cause blossom loss.
Sunscald
Tomatoes get sunburn just like people. At first, a yellowish-white patch appears on the side of the tomato facing the sun. The damaged area gets larger and becomes grayish-white as the tomato ripens.
Prevent sunscald by training tomatoes in cages where the leaves shade the fruit (which delays ripening). On staked plants, leave some foliage to protect the ripening tomatoes. Also, control early blight and other diseases that cause tomato plants to lose their foliage.
Pests
Watch carefully for problems and always identify the pest before attempting to treat it. For help, take a sample to your Agway dealer for identification and advice on control measures.
Eggplant Cultivation
Eggplants thrive best in full sun where summers are hot and long. It takes all summer for the plants to produce fruit. A long growing season with temperatures between 70° F and 85° is best.
Eggplants prefer well-drained soils such as sandy loam amended with potash, compost and peat moss. Too much nitrogen from too much compost can cause the plants to produce too many leaves. Soil pH should be between 5.8 and 6.5. The best way to determine your soil's fertilizer needs is to have it tested. If you are unable to have your soil tested, you can apply 3 pounds of 5-10-10 per 100 square feet.
Start seeds indoors 8 to 9 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Eggplant seeds germinate best at 70° to 90°F. When seedlings are 6 to 8 weeks old, begin to harden them off in preparation for transplanting. Plant them in the garden after all danger of frost has past and soil temperatures are warm.
If you purchase seedlings from a garden center for transplanting into your garden, avoid plants that are tall and spindly. Purchase plants without blossoms. Blossoms on newly planted seedlings will slow the growth and establishment of the plant. This will reduce fruit yield on the mature plant later.
Plants should be spaced in rows 3 to 4 feet apart with individual plants spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. Sidedress your eggplants with 3 ozs. of lime per 10 feet of row when the fruits are the size of quarters. Sidedress them again three weeks later.
Water your eggplant crop to a soil depth of 6 inches often enough to keep the garden uniformly moist. Maintaining adequate water supply is most essential when the plants are setting fruit and throughout the fruiting period. A good layer of mulch will help to keep soil evenly moist and discourages weeds.
Harvest eggplants when the fruits are of good size but before the flesh becomes tough. The fruit is ripe when a fingernail print remains on the skin when the flesh is lightly pressed. Transplants obtained at a garden center will most likely reach maturity 60 to 80 days after planting. Eggplants raised from seed will take longer at 100 to 120 days. Harvest the fruits by cutting the stems with a garden knife. Harvest eggplants at least once per week when the fruits ripen. Twice a week if needed.
Summer Squash Cultivation
Zucchini, crookneck, patty pan, the varieties of summer squash are endless. One of the more popular annual summer vegetables, summer squash can be planted throughout the United States at any time after the last frost date when the soil temperature 4 inches down has reached 60° F. A black plastic mulch will help to warm the soil sooner.
Seeds can be planted in full sun 4-6 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart at a depth of one half inch. Summer squash thrives best when temperatures average between 65° F and 75° F. Thin the seedlings to 12-15 inches apart when the first pair of true leaves appears.
Another way to cultivate summer squash is to plant the seeds in low hills spaced 3 to 4 feet apart in rows 4 to 6 feet apart. Two or three seeds to each hill is best.
Test your soil to determine your fertilizer needs. pH should be between 5.8 and 6.5 for best results. It is also important to maintain adequate levels of calcium in the soil because too little can cause blossom end rot in the fruit. Applying the recommended amount of lime just before planting is essential to a healthy crop. Too much nitrogen will cause excessive vine growth to the detriment of the fruit growth. Too much nitrogen also inhibits proper intake of calcium by the plants.
Water your plants in the morning to allow the leaves enough time to dry before nightfall. To prevent shallow root systems from developing, water to a depth of 6 inches two to three times per week, more often during drier periods.
The most critical time to maintain a proper water supply is when fruit is setting and developing.
Provide organic mulch 2 to three inches deep for your plants. This will help to retain moisture in the soil and allow the roots to take in calcium more efficiently.
For proper fruit growth, bees must pollinate squash blossoms. Separate male and female flowers, pollen must be transferred between them for fruit to set. Look for bees around your plants when blooming begins. Avoid using insecticides on squash plants until late in the evening when bees are no longer active. Improper pollination of summer squash results in poorly shaped fruit.
You can begin to harvest most squash varieties 55 days after planting. Harvest fruits when the skins have a glossy appearance and are tender when slightly pressed. Harvest the fruits every day or every other day. Scallop (patty pan) squash should be harvested when the fruits are 3 or 4 inches in diameter. Zucchini fruits should be 7 or 8 inches long when harvested. Yellow crookneck and straightneck squash should be harvested when the fruits are 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter.
Large hard fruits should be removed and discarded. Leaving them on the plants will discourage further fruiting. Store harvested summer squash in the refrigerator and use or process within one week.
Sweet Corn in the Backyard Garden
Most backyard gardeners don’t plant sweet corn alongside their tomatoes and zucchinis, but with proper care, space and growing conditions, sweet corn can thrive in a backyard garden. Fresh corn on the cob is a summer delight that’s sweetest when it’s just picked, a perfect reward for the effort!
When to plant
Sweet corn grows best in full sun and in rich, warm soil. It doesn’t do as well in frost or freeze conditions, but likely will survive light or scattered frosts. Start planting on or just prior to the mean frost-free date for your region. Planting can continue as late as early July.
Most of today’s sweet corn varieties are hybrids. Plant the kernel (seeds) about one inch to one-and-a-half inches deep and about nine inches to 12 inches apart. Plant at least four rows, each four feet long. It can take 65 to 95 days for sweet corn to mature, depending on the variety. For a long lasting sweet corn crop, plant several varieties that mature at different times. When planting more than one variety, place the same variety in side-by-side rows.
Water deeply after planting, and again a few days later if there’s been no rain. Even though sweet corn flourishes in hot weather, it benefits from regular watering. Use a general purpose fertilizer every few weeks. Weed the rows frequently, but chemical herbicides generally are not recommended for home gardens.
Diseases become more prevalent when the ears form. At that point, silkworms are common pests. During rainy periods, a fungus may develop on the ears. Deer can be a problem, as can blue jays and other birds that help themselves to the crop.
Harvest time
Each cornstalk should produce at least one large ear. Many varieties produce a smaller, second ear that develops later than the first ear.
Ears are ready to pick when the unhusked ear has tightly folded, green leaves and dried, dark brown silk. Pull back the husk to expose the tip of the ear. Corn is at its best when the kernels are fully formed, but not fully matured. Known as the milk stage, the juice in the kernel is milky when punctured. Milk stage lasts about a week and usually occurs about 20 days after the first silk strands appear.
If the ear is not ripe, the liquid will be watery. Close the husk to prevent bugs. Some folks use a twist tie around the end.
When the ears are ready, snap them off by hand with a quick, firm, downward push, twist and pull. Hold the cornstalk with your free hand.
After the harvest, the dried stalks can be used in fall decorations or pulled out and composted.
A taste of summer Proper timing for harvest is crucial to quality. The best time to pick sweet corn is right before eating it. The fresher the corn, the sweeter it will taste. Sweet corn aficionados actually measure freshness in minutes, not hours or days. That’s because once picked, the sugar immediately starts turning to starch and the ears lose flavor, kernel quality and sweetness.
If the ears must be stored, pick in the morning when the corn is at peak sweetness. Refrigerate them to slow the sugar-to-starch.
Caring for Carrots
Sow carrot seeds early in spring as soon as the ground is workable. The seed is very small and much easier to sow if mixed with sand or fine soil. Sow 1⁄2 inch deep in rows 1 foot apart. Thin while young, and again several times as they grow, ending with plants 2 inches apart. Carrot seeds need to be kept evenly moist as they are slow to germinate, sometimes taking several weeks. For best flavor, wait to harvest until carrots are deeply colored and fully matured.
Thinning Fruit
Once your trees have set fruit, Start thinning excess to ensure better development of the remaining fruits with less strain on the tree. This is especially important for those trees bearing fruit for the first or second time. Allow a spacing of five inches between peaches on opposite sides of the branch, and three inches between plums and apricots. Thin peaches before the fruit reaches the size of a quarter for the greatest benefit in size and flavor of the remaining fruit.
Be ruthless in your thinning. The fruits may be small now but they'll take lots of the tree's energy to mature. You don't want to stress the tree to produce fruit you won't eat because there's too much ripening at one time. Even if you remove three-quarters of the fruit that set, you'll have more than enough to eat!
Growing cantaloupes and honeydew melons
Call them cantaloupes or muskmelons, these sweet treats are a summer favorite. Their fragrant orange fruit make them the most commonly grown – and eaten – melons.
Honeydews ripen more slowly and are available later in the season compared to muskmelons. They have a smooth rind, subtler taste and are less aromatic. Honeydews have a greenish-white rind and light green fruit.
As members of the gourd family, melons can be slightly larger than a baseball or grow to more than 15-pounds. Rind color varies from pale white to dark green. The fruit can be pale yellow, light green or bright orange. Seeds fill the hollow centers.
Try planting both cantaloupes and honeydews this year. They’re easy to grow and are planted the same way. The difference comes at harvest.
Planting seeds and starts
Melons do best in warm weather. The soil needs to be warm and dry, so plant them after the danger of frost has passed.
Some gardeners plant cantaloupes and honeydews through holes in a landscape fabric or black plastic. The material traps heat and warms the soil to encourage growth at the beginning of the season. The fabric also keeps vines clean and deters weeds.
In areas where a chill lingers, start the seeds indoors three to four weeks before transplanting them outdoors. Use individual peat containers to avoid disturbing the roots.
Plant melon seeds in six- to 12-inch mounds of soil. Sow three to five seeds two inches apart and about one inch deep. Space the mounds two feet apart in rows that are five feet apart.
When the seedlings sprout leaves, thin them to 18- to 24-inches apart. Melon vines take up a lot of space and the distance allows air to circulate freely.
Apply an all-purpose fertilizer every two to three weeks. Cantaloupes and honeydews benefit from slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Each month, add a few inches of compost to the root areas.
The vines require a lot of water, so give them up to two inches of water each week. Trickle irrigation at the soil level is best. Water the melons in the morning, so the leaves are dry by evening. That helps to prevent fungal diseases.
While both male and female flowers grow on the same melon vine, bees are necessary for pollination and subsequent fruiting. The first blooms are the male flowers. They can’t set fruit and will fall off. The female flowers appear a short time later. After bees pollinate them, the small bulb at bloom’s base will develop into the melon.
If space is limited, cantaloupes and honeydews can be trained to grow up a trellis or fence. Use soft ties to secure them. Shortly after the melons start to develop, support them with mesh bags tied to the trellis. Otherwise, their weight could strain or pull the vine down.
Keep the maturing melons from touching the ground. Propping them up on mulch piles, flower pots or other similar items helps prevent rotting and pests.
Harvest time
Most melons ripen in late summer or early- to mid-fall. It’s typical to get two to three melons per vine. Their sweetness largely is determined during the three weeks leading up to harvest. Water them less during that time, as it’s the drier conditions that promote sweetness.
Cantaloupes are fragrant when they’re ready to pick. The stem will separate, or slip, easily from the fruit. The green netted rind turns to tan-yellow. Sugar development comes from adequate ripening time on the vines. Don’t pick them too soon. Sugars are stored in muskmelons until the stem separates. Once picked, they soften but don’t sweeten further.
Pick honeydews when the rind turns a cream color. The blossom end will be slightly soft. Honeydews won’t slip from the vine, so cut them off. Once picked, they’ll ripen for several days at room temperature.
Harvest both honeydews and muskmelons in the morning after the dew has dried. Pick them every other day at the beginning of harvest and every day during peak season. Otherwise, some of the sweet crop likely will be enjoyed by wildlife and insects.
Article by: Lisa Hooker
Growing Marvelous Melons
When growing melons, weather is key. The warmer it is, the sweeter the melons will be. Plant melons in late spring to early summer, when air and soil are very warm. It will help to use plenty of compost or manure, then cover with black plastic. Transplanted seedlings can be placed into holes punched in the plastic if necessary. Sow 1⁄2 inch deep in hills that are 6 to 8 feet apart. For cantaloupes and muskmelons, plant 10 to 12 seeds per hill, then thin to four plants each. Plant only 6 to 8 seeds per hill for watermelon, and thin as needed.
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